Finding the Best Acne Serums
If acne face washes and wash-off treatments haven’t worked for you, an acne serum is an excellent alternative. Serums are made of concentrated active ingredients known to clear pores, slough off dead skin cells and treat breakouts. An ideal serum will reduce pimples over time without causing excessive dryness and irritation. So, how do you know what type of serum will work for your acne and skin type?
The answer depends on your tolerance to chemical exfoliants, the level of acne you are facing (the occasional breakout, whiteheads, blackheads or cystic) and whether you have dry, oily or combination skin. If you’re a beginner, we recommend trying a mild serum — then maybe building up in strength over time. As you become more experienced, you may find that you can use multiple serums in your routine, such as one in the morning and a different one at night, which work together to clear acne and keep your skin healthy.
What to Consider When Choosing the Best Acne Serums
Strength
A strong acne serum is one that contains strong chemical exfoliators — acids that remove dead skin cells, increase skin cell turnover, clear pores and brighten skin. Strong exfoliants such as salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are the best for clearing out pores but can also cause irritation, flaky skin and dryness. In contrast, weak acne serums may contain weak acids such as mandelic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and gluconolactone acid. The concentration of the chemical exfoliants also matters; an. 0.5% solution of salicylic acid will be easier to tolerate than a 2% solution, for example.
Some acne serums don’t contain traditional exfoliants, which are difficult to tolerate if you have sensitive skin. Instead, they may contain niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that regulates oil production and reduces the swelling and inflammation that comes with acne. They may also contain zinc, which is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.
Chemical Exfoliants
There are three types of chemical exfoliants you’ll find in acne serums: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs). BHAs like salicylic acid are the strongest of the three, and help clear clogged pores and reduce oil. AHAs are gentler, and they primarily slough off dead skin cells and increase skin cell turnover. PHAs are the gentlest exfoliants of the bunch because they don’t penetrate the skin as deeply as BHAs or AHAs, making them a great choice for sensitive skin.
Hydrators
If your acne serum contains one or more chemical exfoliants, it’s important for it to also contain hydrating ingredients. Common moisturizers that perform well in serums and don’t clog pores include hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, glycerin and fatty acids.
Skin Type
Your skin type can also help you determine which acne serum will work for you. If you have dry or sensitive skin, for instance, a gentle formula that contains an AHA or a PHA along with hydrating ingredients is a great pick. Oily skin may perform better with a BHA-based formula. Ingredients like niacinamide and zinc are great for beginners, regardless of your skin type.
Price
How much do you want to spend on your acne serum? While these treatments can get exorbitantly expensive, we believe you don’t have to spend more than $40 to experience great results. Some of our top picks cost less than $20.
What Are the Different Types of Acne Serums?
Mild
A mild acne serum will likely have a low concentration of an AHA or PHA, and it may have a combination of both. It could also contain a BHA and still be gentle as long as the BHA is a low concentration (typically less than 1%). Some acne serums contain no active ingredients at all, just anti-inflammatories and hydrators. Mild serums are great for beginners, people with sensitive skin or people who want to use the serum on a daily basis.
Moderate
Moderate acne serums are those that contain moderately-strong chemical exfoliators or active ingredients, such as a higher concentration of an AHA or PHA. Or it may contain encapsulated salicylic acid or encapsulated retinol. These are strong ingredients that deeply penetrate skin and increase skin cell turnover, but are milder in an encapsulated form.
Heavy-Duty
A heavy-duty acne serum typically contains a moderate to high concentration of a BHA (around 2%), or it may contain a high concentration of multiple chemical exfoliators. Some strong serums contain a form of vitamin A such as retinol or adapalene, which target blind pimples and help bring them to the surface. While effective, heavy-duty serums can easily irritate the skin, so we recommend using them once every five days to start and increasing frequency from there.
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